home

I'm home! I made it back to NYC after 26 hours of traveling and here I sit, awake at 7 am due to jetlag, but alive and happy.

The last few days in Delhi were a whirlwind, sorry I didn't write. This will be my last post. But just wanted to wrap things up and say that everything ended up going well. My project was really well-received, so that's great. On the last day in Delhi I visited with Aunty one last time and got to see the whole family doing one of their weekly community-feeds! It was a lovely and sorrowful farewell. I hope I see her again but... she is very old. So, only time will tell.

I am going to spare this blog the "end-of-my-journey" wisdom schpeel. I have gained and lost wisdom, but it's inarticulable right now... For the moment I am just happy to be home. NYC is quiet (yes) and clean (really). It's bizarre, actually, how FEW people there are in this country. Bizarre and lovely and a little lonely.

I got used to the rickshaws, children, motorcycles, cars, cows, elephants and camels that littered the streets of India.

Oh, one last story. The very last night I was in Delhi I ended up in someone's wedding procession. I don't know how it happened. I was sitting outside with my friends and all of the sudden we heard a Dol (spelling?) drum being played. Dols are used in Bhangra, so we followed the sound in the hopes that we would see dancing. What we saw was an entire wedding procession marching down the streets!! There was the groom on a horse, a million sweaty men dancing to Bhangra, and a string of electrical lights carried on the shoulders of men, powered by a generator that was being towed by a man on a bicycle! We started dancing and were soon the center of attention, with cameras pointed at us, and the bride's best friend asking us to come to the dinner party. We did go, but ended up leaving because we were in jeans and felt very, very awkward.

It was divine and completely wacky and just a little bit uncomfortable (or, very uncomfortable). A perfect way to conclude my journey.

delhi continued

Ah, back in Delhi. It's the city of dirt, dust, and dirty old men. But it is nice to be back, believe it or not. It was hard at first - I found myself being moody and annoyed at everyone for having stories that I can't relate to... but now I've come to terms with that, and it's much better.

We are staying at the Sri Aurobindo Ashram, where we stayed when we first arrived in Delhi. It's amazing to be in the same place because everything is so different. I feel like I actually see the ashram now; the surrounding community and the layout of the rooms are recognizable. It's interesting. I'm staying in a room with my dear friend Isabelle, which is lovely because it's freezing and we have a pile of wool blankets and FLEECE LINED SLEEPING BAGS to sleep in. I wasn't able to sleep in when in Darjeeling, but now that I'm back in Delhi I can sleep and relax. That's probably because I don't have a paper to finish. Everything is coming to a close.

Yesterday my friends I went to Jan Path Market to buy christmas gifts and I had a great experience getting my Indian shoes fixed. A shoemaker tracked me down through the market and informed me that my shoe was broken (which... it was). So, Isabelle and I sat down with this old man as he fixed my leather shoe. He sat cross-legged, holding my show between his feet, and sewing the leather together. He looked very animal-like, and was incredibly adorable and endearing. He then told me that I needed rubber soles. I was convinced he just wanted money, so I said "No, No, ji." But, like a true salesmen, he did it anyway. He just resoled my shoes. He said "Give me whatever you want." So I paid him a good amount (because he was a great man), and he gave Izzy and I chai! It was amazing to watch him work--a true crafstmen. We sat there for about an hour and were able to see the whole community of the street wandering by, the chai-wallah and the peacock feather-wallah. It was fascinating.

I just realized I'm leaving a day earlier than I thought which is kind of funny. I leave on Sunday and not on Monday! What?! Meaning I arrive in America a day sooner than I thought, and get to eat some salad a day sooner than I thought!! Salad, I am looking forward to the vegetables and the fruit.

See you all soon, I will write again soon, I hope.

putain oui!

I have left Darjeeling and there is a hole in my heart. The last few days were truly great. My friends and I were joined by two more younguns from Kolkata, two french guys who taught us the joy of the swear word "putain." The mountains came out the last morning I was in Darjeeling and at 6:30 "the french" (as we called them) and I were on the roof of Hotel Aliment and Mathieu exclaimed, "Oh! Putain oui!!" which he described as, essentially, "F**K YEAH!" Obviously an enlightening experience, eh?

But in all seriousness, my stay in Darjeeling was amazing. Not only was the project a success (my very scholarly advisor is pleased, which is a great, great thing), but I managed to find time to jaunt around. The last day in Darjeeling the French, my friends from Seattle (they all worked at Mother Theresa House and were from Seattle University), and I went to this teahouse called Nathmull's. We got fancy tea (Rs 125 a pop!) in champagne glasses and got super hyped up on green tea. Then Michelle, Emily, Pierre, and I went for an incredible walk all around the hills of Darjeeling and talked about traveling, America, France, and English. I learned that the french say "For Your Wish" when you sneeze, instead of "Bless You." I don't know why but I found that sort of profound. Pierre informed us that he has always hated America, but after meeting Americans he thinks he'll come visit the country. We were pleased. It's amazing to watch people's perspectives change right in front of you...

Now I'm back in Delhi and my perspective has changed. I find myself yearning for those nights on the roof of Hotel Aliment, for the sweet simplicity of Darjeeling. The life of my friends here in Delhi has been a great, huge party. It sounds amazing and fun, but I wouldn't trade my month for anything.

I stayed with Aunty last night and that was amazing. She's the funniest woman in the world. She told me today that I have to invite her to my wedding (?). She's crazy.

Now I'm going to see her preschool's Christmas play (they celebrate Christian, Hindu, and Muslim holidays) and then I'm off to print my paper and finish up my own Christmas shopping.

Love to all. I cannot wait to come home! I didn't want to leave Darjeeling but the shock of Delhi has sent me pining for home...

familiar faces, sacred places

Sorry I haven't posted in a while. I've finished everything (paper and all) and have been spending time tooling around/lazing around Darjeeling with ten other students. I met this group of wonderful people in Kolkata and they just showed up at my hotel here in Darjeeling, so we've been doing the tourist things together, which has been great!

We went to this place called the "Happy Valley Tea Estate" and got a lesson in tea harvesting. Everyone rode these sad little ponies but, because of my intense animal-rights values, I decided to walk to the estate. It was, to say the least, a "trek." I got lost, of course, but ended up there eventually and everyone talked about how the ponies felt like they were going to fall over under the weight of humans, so I felt good about my decision. After the tea estate we tried to go back to the "Hot Stimulating Cafe" where warm local beer is served, unfortunately it seems they are never open.... maybe tonight??

But, we had a great night regardless. We ventured back to the hotel and sat on the roof drinking hot chocolate (with just a speck of rum/brandy in it) and sang Christmas carols. There is a little teeny baby here at the hotel who is the granddaughter of the owner. She came out and said things like "Good night" and "see you!" which was also precious.

Then yesterday we woke up at 4 am to venture to Tiger Hill, where you can see views of Everest. Unfortunately Darjeeling and the surrounding hills have clouded over in the past few days so we just saw the tip of Kenchengdzonga... but it was still beautiful. We saw the sunrise and then we walked 5 km back to Ghoom, then took a jeep to Darjeeling because we hadn't had breakfast yet.

Today is another site-seeing day. I have a routine in which I edit until about 10 am (editing/finishing up the paper) and then I go off with everyone. We're heading to the Mountaineering Institute to see the Everest exhibit, and then it's back to the hotel, most likely, for a little r & r.

I leave for New Delhi on Sunday (2 days)... it's strange because it almost feels like I'm going home, but then I really DO go home a week from Monday! Wow. The time passes quickly.